On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 10:53 AM, Philip B Simpson via Bike-racers <bike-racers@mailman.swcp.com> wrote:

Summary of my 3 years of road tubeless

  experience: Yellow tape, valves and Stan's fluid work great on

  Bontrager Race X-Lites, both 2008 and 2011 models, and also on

  Mavic Aksium wheels. I love the 25 mm wide Hutchinson Intensive

  tires, super long lasting and flats are extremely rare. Weight of

  306g I think is not bad for a sturdy tire and of course you save

  the weight of the tube. Have also used Hutchinson Fusion 3s,

  slightly softer and lighter, good race tire but I don't use them

  for training/commuting. Be careful to get the tubeless version of

  the tires. Disclaimer: I wear a NoTubesNM jersey so I may be

  biased.



  On 5/3/2014 12:14 PM, Tapley, George L via Bike-racers wrote:
Dave,

We

buy bikes because we love the ride. Then as we get flats we

put crap into the tires so we don’t get flats. Sealant,

liners, the system…etc. Then the wheels with all of this

stuff become heavy and unresponsive. The make the bike ride

like a ton of bricks and feel dead.   Tubeless systems put

the smile back on your face. The handling is

unbelievable!!!   Oh and I know Robb M. has been riding them

since they came out. You know as well as I do that Robb

doesn’t ride junk or anything that does not work.

G



From:

David Porter [mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com]

Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:47 PM

To: Tapley, George L; 'Randall Canfield'; Clay

Moseley

Cc: racer's list

Subject: Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum



Hmm.. so what ever happened to the old

  "system" method of an old tire sans the side walls as a liner?

   I'm still using it and get maybe one flat per season. That's

  one tire (your choice), a tube and a worn out clincher... Am I

  missing something or am I just too cheap to do what everyone

  else is doing? I don't see the advantage of using a liquid

  sealant.



  dave


On 5/2/2014 6:04 PM, Tapley, George L

wrote:


Hmmm!!!

  My set up was Easton EA70 wheels that are now 4 years

  old.   Stan’s tape 12.00, Stan’s valves 15.99, Stan’s

  sealant from the jug I had left over from doing my MTB

  tires 5 or 6 years ago. Hutchinson Sector tires….ebay

  122.00 for the pair with free shipping.




Total

  cost…well not what you have added up…let me see just what

  I spent on the new supplies well under $160.00.




Priceless

  to me as they are the best riding tire since the Clement

  Paris-Roubaix or Vittoria Pave CG tires that I loved back

  in the early 80’s. Not getting flats has just been a

  bonus! And yes, I pluck lots of goatheads out of them

  these days!




You

  cannot use a folding clincher…it will blow off of the

  rim…maybe a steel beaded tire if it is a very tight fit on

  the rim.






From:

  owner-bike-racers@swcp.com

  [mailto:owner-bike-racers@swcp.com]

  On Behalf Of Randall Canfield

  Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 4:30 PM

  To: Clay Moseley

  Cc: racer's list

  Subject: Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum








Yes you

are correct and I am as cheap as they come. Alpha Comp

wheel set 635.00, Hutchinson Secteur tubless tires 87.99

per tire, stan's valves 15.99. That's 825.00 for the set

up. The OP concern was also about goat heads and flats

in addition to tubeless.

Just though they might want to here a getto goat head

buster set up for price of the tubes and stain's alone.

You can't go 5 miles in this town without pick'n up a

goat head.

On 5/2/2014 3:57 PM, Clay Moseley

  wrote:






Hey Randall,







Your idea is a good one, but it's

  not really a "tubeless" setup. It is simply a DIY

  slime tube (or more like a 'sealant' tube, as we've

  mostly all gone to using sealant like Stan's instead

  of that green slime), something many of us have been

  doing for a long time. In the method you describe,

  you're taking off the little cylindrical valve nut

  (sometimes requiring filing the valve stem plunger to

  get off), and filling the tube with sealant while

  keeping your thumb on the back of the tube to keep the

  valve stem core from dropping into the tube.









Like I said, it's a good idea, but

  not the same as a true tubeless setup. There various

  justifications to just go without the tube. The main

  thing is the mechanics of the "ride" of the tire, or

  how the sidewall deforms under pressure and how it

  affects the tire's contact to the road. This is

  somewhat different from what the tire does with a tube

  in it. You can still pinch-flat a sealant tube, and

  it likely will NOT seal because the lacerations in a

  pinch flat are just too big to seal.









Also, the tubeless tire setup

  actually seals much more quickly than a tube with

  sealant -- much more quickly, in most cases.









The investment for the tubeless

  setups is not that much, and in the end pays for

  itself with the fact that you don't have to deal with

  tubes nearly as much as before. If you're like me,

  you probably have a bunch of old tubes with a hole or

  two sitting around collecting dust and dry rotting. I

  used to be able to give them to the junior kids around

  here and teach them how to patch them, then they just

  got to keep them. Now, not that many kids get into

  cycling, so I've collected more than I want to admit.

   Anyway, tubeless eliminates a lot of this.









So, to get to my point, you can buy

  that same tape that Stan's sells for much cheaper --

  3M makes that 1/2" clear weather seal adhesive tape,

  which is essentially the same thing. There are lots

  of 3M adhesive tapes that work OK for the purpose, and

  if you REALLY want it to seal, just make a couple of

  quick passes over it with a heat gun (don't burn

  through it, though).









You still gotta buy the tubeless

  valve stems, though. That is not a big expense. You

  also have to use a pretty sturdy folding clincher. I

  don't think a tire with a steel bead would work as

  tubeless (who uses those anyway?).









The main thing that makes this a

  "specialty" product, however, is the need to have an

  air compressor. You just can't get that air surge

  that you need from a hand pump alone. You gotta have

  an air compressor and a presta to schrader valve

  adapter.













On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:27 PM,

  Randall Canfield <Rcanfield@canfieldinsurance.com>

  wrote:



DIY


For those of you that don't

want to spend a small fortune on rims and tires.

I use the standard rim. What ever you now have.

My SS has Surly heavy rims and a 28 Gotham tire.

I get the cheapest tubes I can buy with long

stems. Remove the end nut on the stem valve and

pinch the back of the tube when you feel the

stem drop in. Hard to explain but easy to do.

Probably some thing about it online anyway. Fill

it with 2oz of stan's. Shake the stem back out

and put the nut back on. Don't put any thing

between the tire and the tube. Such as a liner

or it won't seal good. (Thanks to Mark Thompson

for that tip.) I picked out 2 goat heads this

morning and lost only a few lbs before it

sealed. I can usually run the same tube for many

months and just pick out the goat heads when I

see them. I also have a road bike with 25's on

Fulcrum rims I commute with no problems. Goat

heads are the devil's child....Just say'n.












--

Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE

Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world

www.porterbikes.com/
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