[NMPsycoling] [NMCycling] Tubeless forum

Philip B Simpson via Bike-racers bike-racers at mailman.swcp.com
Sun May 4 10:53:17 MDT 2014


Summary of my 3 years of road tubeless experience: Yellow tape, valves 
and Stan's fluid work great on Bontrager Race X-Lites, both 2008 and 
2011 models, and also on Mavic Aksium wheels.  I love the 25 mm wide 
Hutchinson Intensive tires, super long lasting and flats are extremely 
rare. Weight of 306g I think is not bad for a sturdy tire and of course 
you save the weight of the tube. Have also used Hutchinson Fusion 3s, 
slightly softer and lighter, good race tire but I don't use them for 
training/commuting. Be careful to get the tubeless version of the tires. 
Disclaimer: I wear a NoTubesNM jersey so I may be biased.

On 5/3/2014 12:14 PM, Tapley, George L via Bike-racers wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> We buy bikes because we love the ride.  Then as we get flats we put 
> crap into the tires so we don't get flats.  Sealant, liners, the 
> system...etc.  Then the wheels with all of this stuff become heavy and 
> unresponsive.  The make the bike ride like a ton of bricks and feel 
> dead.   Tubeless systems put the smile back on your face.     The 
> handling is unbelievable!!!   Oh and I know Robb M. has been riding 
> them since they came out.  You know as well as I do that Robb doesn't 
> ride junk or anything that does not work.
>
> G
>
> *From:*David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, May 02, 2014 8:47 PM
> *To:* Tapley, George L; 'Randall Canfield'; Clay Moseley
> *Cc:* racer's list
> *Subject:* Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum
>
> Hmm.. so what ever happened to the old "system" method of an old tire 
> sans the side walls as a liner?
>  I'm still using it and get maybe one flat per season. That's one tire 
> (your choice), a tube and a worn out clincher... Am I missing 
> something or am I just too cheap to do what everyone else is doing? I 
> don't see the advantage of using a liquid sealant.
> dave
>
> On 5/2/2014 6:04 PM, Tapley, George L wrote:
>
>     Hmmm!!! My set up was Easton EA70 wheels that are now 4 years
>     old.   Stan's tape 12.00, Stan's valves 15.99,  Stan's sealant
>     from the jug I had left over from doing my MTB tires 5 or 6 years
>     ago.  Hutchinson Sector tires....ebay 122.00 for the pair with
>     free shipping.
>
>     Total cost...well not what you have added up...let me see just
>     what I spent on the new supplies well under  $160.00.
>
>     Priceless to me as they are the best riding tire since the Clement
>     Paris-Roubaix or Vittoria Pave CG tires that I loved back in the
>     early 80's.  Not getting flats has just been a bonus!  And yes, I
>     pluck lots of goatheads out of them these days!
>
>     You cannot use a folding clincher...it will blow off of the
>     rim...maybe a steel beaded tire if it is a very tight fit on the rim.
>
>     *From:*owner-bike-racers at swcp.com
>     <mailto:owner-bike-racers at swcp.com>
>     [mailto:owner-bike-racers at swcp.com] *On Behalf Of *Randall Canfield
>     *Sent:* Friday, May 02, 2014 4:30 PM
>     *To:* Clay Moseley
>     *Cc:* racer's list
>     *Subject:* Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum
>
>     Yes you are correct and I am as cheap as they come. Alpha Comp
>     wheel set 635.00, Hutchinson Secteur tubless tires 87.99 per tire,
>     stan's valves 15.99. That's 825.00 for the set up. The OP concern
>     was also about goat heads and flats in addition to tubeless.
>     Just though they might want to here a getto goat head buster set
>     up for price of the tubes and stain's alone.
>
>     You can't go 5 miles in this town without pick'n up a goat head.
>
>
>     On 5/2/2014 3:57 PM, Clay Moseley wrote:
>
>         Hey Randall,
>
>         Your idea is a good one, but it's not really a "tubeless"
>         setup.  It is simply a DIY slime tube (or more like a
>         'sealant' tube, as we've mostly all gone to using sealant like
>         Stan's instead of that green slime), something many of us have
>         been doing for a long time.  In the method you describe,
>         you're taking off the little cylindrical valve nut (sometimes
>         requiring filing the valve stem plunger to get off), and
>         filling the tube with sealant while keeping your thumb on the
>         back of the tube to keep the valve stem core from dropping
>         into the tube.
>
>         Like I said, it's a good idea, but not the same as a true
>         tubeless setup.  There various justifications to just go
>         without the tube.  The main thing is the mechanics of the
>         "ride" of the tire, or how the sidewall deforms under pressure
>         and how it affects the tire's contact to the road.  This is
>         somewhat different from what the tire does with a tube in it.
>          You can still pinch-flat a sealant tube, and it likely will
>         NOT seal because the lacerations in a pinch flat are just too
>         big to seal.
>
>         Also, the tubeless tire setup actually seals much more quickly
>         than a tube with sealant -- much more quickly, in most cases.
>
>         The investment for the tubeless setups is not that much, and
>         in the end pays for itself with the fact that you don't have
>         to deal with tubes nearly as much as before.  If you're like
>         me, you probably have a bunch of old tubes with a hole or two
>         sitting around collecting dust and dry rotting.  I used to be
>         able to give them to the junior kids around here and teach
>         them how to patch them, then they just got to keep them.  Now,
>         not that many kids get into cycling, so I've collected more
>         than I want to admit.  Anyway, tubeless eliminates a lot of this.
>
>         So, to get to my point, you can buy that same tape that Stan's
>         sells for much cheaper -- 3M makes that 1/2" clear weather
>         seal adhesive tape, which is essentially the same thing.
>          There are lots of 3M adhesive tapes that work OK for the
>         purpose, and if you REALLY want it to seal, just make a couple
>         of quick passes over it with a heat gun (don't burn through
>         it, though).
>
>         You still gotta buy the tubeless valve stems, though.  That is
>         not a big expense.  You also have to use a pretty sturdy
>         folding clincher.  I don't think a tire with a steel bead
>         would work as tubeless (who uses those anyway?).
>
>         The main thing that makes this a "specialty" product, however,
>         is the need to have an air compressor.  You just can't get
>         that air surge that you need from a hand pump alone.  You
>         gotta have an air compressor and a presta to schrader valve
>         adapter.
>
>         On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:27 PM, Randall Canfield
>         <Rcanfield at canfieldinsurance.com
>         <mailto:Rcanfield at canfieldinsurance.com>> wrote:
>
>         DIY
>
>         For those of you that don't want to spend a small fortune on
>         rims and tires. I use the standard rim. What ever you now
>         have. My SS has Surly heavy rims and a 28 Gotham tire. I get
>         the cheapest tubes I can buy with long stems. Remove the end
>         nut on the stem valve and pinch the back of the tube when you
>         feel the stem drop in. Hard to explain but easy to do.
>         Probably some thing about it online anyway. Fill it with 2oz
>         of stan's. Shake the stem back out and put the nut back on.
>         Don't put any thing between the tire and the tube. Such as a
>         liner or it won't seal good. (Thanks to Mark Thompson for that
>         tip.) I picked out 2 goat heads this morning and lost only a
>         few lbs before it sealed. I can usually run the same tube for
>         many months and just pick out the goat heads when I see them.
>         I also have a road bike with 25's on Fulcrum rims I commute
>         with no problems. Goat heads are the devil's child....Just say'n.
>
> -- 
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ 
> <http://www.porterbikes.com/>
>
>
>
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