[NMCycling] [NMPsycoling] Tubeless forum

[Mark via Bike-racers]

All....To those that have been riding tubeless for some time, could you
please explain how often you replace or add sealant? I am new to the
tubeless group but am really enjoying the ride.

Thanks


On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 10:53 AM, Philip B Simpson via Bike-racers <
bike-racers at mailman.swcp.com> wrote:

>  Summary of my 3 years of road tubeless experience: Yellow tape, valves
> and Stan's fluid work great on Bontrager Race X-Lites, both 2008 and 2011
> models, and also on Mavic Aksium wheels.  I love the 25 mm wide Hutchinson
> Intensive tires, super long lasting and flats are extremely rare. Weight of
> 306g I think is not bad for a sturdy tire and of course you save the weight
> of the tube. Have also used Hutchinson Fusion 3s, slightly softer and
> lighter, good race tire but I don't use them for training/commuting. Be
> careful to get the tubeless version of the tires. Disclaimer: I wear a
> NoTubesNM jersey so I may be biased.
>
>
> On 5/3/2014 12:14 PM, Tapley, George L via Bike-racers wrote:
>
>  Dave,
>
> We buy bikes because we love the ride.  Then as we get flats we put crap
> into the tires so we don’t get flats.  Sealant, liners, the system…etc.
> Then the wheels with all of this stuff become heavy and unresponsive.  The
> make the bike ride like a ton of bricks and feel dead.   Tubeless systems
> put the smile back on your face.     The handling is unbelievable!!!   Oh
> and I know Robb M. has been riding them since they came out.  You know as
> well as I do that Robb doesn’t ride junk or anything that does not work.
>
>
>
> G
>
>
>
> *From:* David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com<frogeye at porterscustom.com>]
>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 02, 2014 8:47 PM
> *To:* Tapley, George L; 'Randall Canfield'; Clay Moseley
> *Cc:* racer's list
> *Subject:* Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum
>
>
>
> Hmm.. so what ever happened to the old "system" method of an old tire sans
> the side walls as a liner?
>  I'm still using it and get maybe one flat per season. That's one tire
> (your choice), a tube and a worn out clincher... Am I missing something or
> am I just too cheap to do what everyone else is doing? I don't see the
> advantage of using a liquid sealant.
> dave
>
> On 5/2/2014 6:04 PM, Tapley, George L wrote:
>
> Hmmm!!!   My set up was Easton EA70 wheels that are now 4 years old.
> Stan’s tape 12.00, Stan’s valves 15.99,  Stan’s sealant from the jug I had
> left over from doing my MTB tires 5 or 6 years ago.  Hutchinson Sector
> tires….ebay  122.00 for the pair with free shipping.
>
>
>
> Total cost…well not what you have added up…let me see just what I spent on
> the new supplies well under  $160.00.
>
>
>
> Priceless to me as they are the best riding tire since the Clement
> Paris-Roubaix or Vittoria Pave CG tires that I loved back in the early
> 80’s.  Not getting flats has just been a bonus!  And yes, I pluck lots of
> goatheads out of them these days!
>
>
>
> You cannot use a folding clincher…it will blow off of the rim…maybe a
> steel beaded tire if it is a very tight fit on the rim.
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-bike-racers at swcp.com [mailto:owner-bike-racers at swcp.com<owner-bike-racers at swcp.com>]
> *On Behalf Of *Randall Canfield
> *Sent:* Friday, May 02, 2014 4:30 PM
> *To:* Clay Moseley
> *Cc:* racer's list
> *Subject:* Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum
>
>
>
>
>
> Yes you are correct and I am as cheap as they come. Alpha Comp wheel set
> 635.00, Hutchinson Secteur tubless tires 87.99 per tire, stan's valves
> 15.99. That's 825.00 for the set up. The OP concern was also about goat
> heads and flats in addition to tubeless.
> Just though they might want to here a getto goat head buster set up for
> price of the tubes and stain's alone.
>
> You can't go 5 miles in this town without pick'n up a goat head.
>
>
>  On 5/2/2014 3:57 PM, Clay Moseley wrote:
>
>  Hey Randall,
>
>
>
> Your idea is a good one, but it's not really a "tubeless" setup.  It is
> simply a DIY slime tube (or more like a 'sealant' tube, as we've mostly all
> gone to using sealant like Stan's instead of that green slime), something
> many of us have been doing for a long time.  In the method you describe,
> you're taking off the little cylindrical valve nut (sometimes requiring
> filing the valve stem plunger to get off), and filling the tube with
> sealant while keeping your thumb on the back of the tube to keep the valve
> stem core from dropping into the tube.
>
>
>
> Like I said, it's a good idea, but not the same as a true tubeless setup.
>  There various justifications to just go without the tube.  The main thing
> is the mechanics of the "ride" of the tire, or how the sidewall deforms
> under pressure and how it affects the tire's contact to the road.  This is
> somewhat different from what the tire does with a tube in it.  You can
> still pinch-flat a sealant tube, and it likely will NOT seal because the
> lacerations in a pinch flat are just too big to seal.
>
>
>
> Also, the tubeless tire setup actually seals much more quickly than a tube
> with sealant -- much more quickly, in most cases.
>
>
>
> The investment for the tubeless setups is not that much, and in the end
> pays for itself with the fact that you don't have to deal with tubes nearly
> as much as before.  If you're like me, you probably have a bunch of old
> tubes with a hole or two sitting around collecting dust and dry rotting.  I
> used to be able to give them to the junior kids around here and teach them
> how to patch them, then they just got to keep them.  Now, not that many
> kids get into cycling, so I've collected more than I want to admit.
>  Anyway, tubeless eliminates a lot of this.
>
>
>
> So, to get to my point, you can buy that same tape that Stan's sells for
> much cheaper -- 3M makes that 1/2" clear weather seal adhesive tape, which
> is essentially the same thing.  There are lots of 3M adhesive tapes that
> work OK for the purpose, and if you REALLY want it to seal, just make a
> couple of quick passes over it with a heat gun (don't burn through it,
> though).
>
>
>
> You still gotta buy the tubeless valve stems, though.  That is not a big
> expense.  You also have to use a pretty sturdy folding clincher.  I don't
> think a tire with a steel bead would work as tubeless (who uses those
> anyway?).
>
>
>
> The main thing that makes this a "specialty" product, however, is the need
> to have an air compressor.  You just can't get that air surge that you need
> from a hand pump alone.  You gotta have an air compressor and a presta to
> schrader valve adapter.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:27 PM, Randall Canfield <
> Rcanfield at canfieldinsurance.com> wrote:
>
> DIY
>
> For those of you that don't want to spend a small fortune on rims and
> tires. I use the standard rim. What ever you now have. My SS has Surly
> heavy rims and a 28 Gotham tire. I get the cheapest tubes I can buy with
> long stems. Remove the end nut on the stem valve and pinch the back of the
> tube when you feel the stem drop in. Hard to explain but easy to do.
> Probably some thing about it online anyway. Fill it with 2oz of stan's.
> Shake the stem back out and put the nut back on. Don't put any thing
> between the tire and the tube. Such as a liner or it won't seal good.
> (Thanks to Mark Thompson for that tip.) I picked out 2 goat heads this
> morning and lost only a few lbs before it sealed. I can usually run the
> same tube for many months and just pick out the goat heads when I see them.
> I also have a road bike with 25's on Fulcrum rims I commute with no
> problems. Goat heads are the devil's child....Just say'n.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>
>
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