[NMCycling] [NMPsycoling] Tubeless forum

Sat May 24 18:49:20 MDT 2014

I'm in the habit of replacing Stan's about every 3 months from mtb. Sometimes sooner in hot months, not so soon in cold months. For a special event, I replace if it's anywhere near 3 months. There's always some left in the tire, which is the way I like it, as well as the wad o' Stan's, which I don't like. I always dismount, clean up, discard and replace - never just add to. I can't imagine how big the wad o' Stan's must get in an mtb tire when the Stan's is just repeatedly added through the valve stem. My experience is limited in road tubeless. I'm only in my 6th month, and have redone once. I think you could ride every day the entire winter and be fine, but it'd really suck to flat because your tire was out of sealant.

- Original Message -----
From: Mark via Bike-racers 
To: Philip B Simpson 
Cc: bike-racers at mailman.swcp.com
Sent: Sat, 24 May 2014 19:01:33 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [NMCycling] [NMPsycoling]  Tubeless forum

All....To those that have been riding tubeless for some time, could you please explain how often you replace or add sealant? I am new to the tubeless group but am really enjoying the ride. 

Thanks

On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 10:53 AM, Philip B Simpson via Bike-racers <bike-racers at mailman.swcp.com> wrote:

Summary of my 3 years of road tubeless

	  experience: Yellow tape, valves and Stan's fluid work great on

	  Bontrager Race X-Lites, both 2008 and 2011 models, and also on

	  Mavic Aksium wheels.  I love the 25 mm wide Hutchinson Intensive

	  tires, super long lasting and flats are extremely rare. Weight of

	  306g I think is not bad for a sturdy tire and of course you save

	  the weight of the tube. Have also used Hutchinson Fusion 3s,

	  slightly softer and lighter, good race tire but I don't use them

	  for training/commuting. Be careful to get the tubeless version of

	  the tires. Disclaimer: I wear a NoTubesNM jersey so I may be

	  biased.

	  On 5/3/2014 12:14 PM, Tapley, George L via Bike-racers wrote:

Dave,

We

			buy bikes because we love the ride.  Then as we get flats we

			put crap into the tires so we don’t get flats.  Sealant,

			liners, the system…etc.  Then the wheels with all of this

			stuff become heavy and unresponsive.  The make the bike ride

			like a ton of bricks and feel dead.   Tubeless systems put

			the smile back on your face.	 The handling is

			unbelievable!!!   Oh and I know Robb M. has been riding them

			since they came out.  You know as well as I do that Robb

			doesn’t ride junk or anything that does not work.

G

From:

				David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com]

				Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:47 PM

				To: Tapley, George L; 'Randall Canfield'; Clay

				Moseley

				Cc: racer's list

				Subject: Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum

Hmm.. so what ever happened to the old

		  "system" method of an old tire sans the side walls as a liner?

		   I'm still using it and get maybe one flat per season. That's

		  one tire (your choice), a tube and a worn out clincher... Am I

		  missing something or am I just too cheap to do what everyone

		  else is doing? I don't see the advantage of using a liquid

		  sealant.

		  dave

On 5/2/2014 6:04 PM, Tapley, George L

			wrote:

Hmmm!!!  

			  My set up was Easton EA70 wheels that are now 4 years

			  old.   Stan’s tape 12.00, Stan’s valves 15.99,  Stan’s

			  sealant from the jug I had left over from doing my MTB

			  tires 5 or 6 years ago.  Hutchinson Sector tires….ebay 

			  122.00 for the pair with free shipping.

Total

			  cost…well not what you have added up…let me see just what

			  I spent on the new supplies well under  $160.00.

Priceless

			  to me as they are the best riding tire since the Clement

			  Paris-Roubaix or Vittoria Pave CG tires that I loved back

			  in the early 80’s.  Not getting flats has just been a

			  bonus!  And yes, I pluck lots of goatheads out of them

			  these days!

You

			  cannot use a folding clincher…it will blow off of the

			  rim…maybe a steel beaded tire if it is a very tight fit on

			  the rim.

From:

				  owner-bike-racers at swcp.com

				  [mailto:owner-bike-racers at swcp.com]

				  On Behalf Of Randall Canfield

				  Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 4:30 PM

				  To: Clay Moseley

				  Cc: racer's list

				  Subject: Re: [NMCycling] Tubeless forum

Yes you

				are correct and I am as cheap as they come. Alpha Comp

				wheel set 635.00, Hutchinson Secteur tubless tires 87.99

				per tire, stan's valves 15.99. That's 825.00 for the set

				up. The OP concern was also about goat heads and flats

				in addition to tubeless.

				Just though they might want to here a getto goat head

				buster set up for price of the tubes and stain's alone.

				You can't go 5 miles in this town without pick'n up a

				goat head.

On 5/2/2014 3:57 PM, Clay Moseley

			  wrote:

Hey Randall, 

Your idea is a good one, but it's

				  not really a "tubeless" setup.  It is simply a DIY

				  slime tube (or more like a 'sealant' tube, as we've

				  mostly all gone to using sealant like Stan's instead

				  of that green slime), something many of us have been

				  doing for a long time.  In the method you describe,

				  you're taking off the little cylindrical valve nut

				  (sometimes requiring filing the valve stem plunger to

				  get off), and filling the tube with sealant while

				  keeping your thumb on the back of the tube to keep the

				  valve stem core from dropping into the tube.

Like I said, it's a good idea, but

				  not the same as a true tubeless setup.  There various

				  justifications to just go without the tube.  The main

				  thing is the mechanics of the "ride" of the tire, or

				  how the sidewall deforms under pressure and how it

				  affects the tire's contact to the road.  This is

				  somewhat different from what the tire does with a tube

				  in it.  You can still pinch-flat a sealant tube, and

				  it likely will NOT seal because the lacerations in a

				  pinch flat are just too big to seal.

Also, the tubeless tire setup

				  actually seals much more quickly than a tube with

				  sealant -- much more quickly, in most cases.

The investment for the tubeless

				  setups is not that much, and in the end pays for

				  itself with the fact that you don't have to deal with

				  tubes nearly as much as before.  If you're like me,

				  you probably have a bunch of old tubes with a hole or

				  two sitting around collecting dust and dry rotting.  I

				  used to be able to give them to the junior kids around

				  here and teach them how to patch them, then they just

				  got to keep them.  Now, not that many kids get into

				  cycling, so I've collected more than I want to admit.

				   Anyway, tubeless eliminates a lot of this.

So, to get to my point, you can buy

				  that same tape that Stan's sells for much cheaper --

				  3M makes that 1/2" clear weather seal adhesive tape,

				  which is essentially the same thing.  There are lots

				  of 3M adhesive tapes that work OK for the purpose, and

				  if you REALLY want it to seal, just make a couple of

				  quick passes over it with a heat gun (don't burn

				  through it, though).  

You still gotta buy the tubeless

				  valve stems, though.  That is not a big expense.  You

				  also have to use a pretty sturdy folding clincher.  I

				  don't think a tire with a steel bead would work as

				  tubeless (who uses those anyway?).

The main thing that makes this a

				  "specialty" product, however, is the need to have an

				  air compressor.  You just can't get that air surge

				  that you need from a hand pump alone.  You gotta have

				  an air compressor and a presta to schrader valve

				  adapter. 

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:27 PM,

				  Randall Canfield <Rcanfield at canfieldinsurance.com>

				  wrote:

DIY

For those of you that don't

						want to spend a small fortune on rims and tires.

						I use the standard rim. What ever you now have.

						My SS has Surly heavy rims and a 28 Gotham tire.

						I get the cheapest tubes I can buy with long

						stems. Remove the end nut on the stem valve and

						pinch the back of the tube when you feel the

						stem drop in. Hard to explain but easy to do.

						Probably some thing about it online anyway. Fill

						it with 2oz of stan's. Shake the stem back out

						and put the nut back on. Don't put any thing

						between the tire and the tube. Such as a liner

						or it won't seal good. (Thanks to Mark Thompson

						for that tip.) I picked out 2 goat heads this

						morning and lost only a few lbs before it

						sealed. I can usually run the same tube for many

						months and just pick out the goat heads when I

						see them. I also have a road bike with 25's on

						Fulcrum rims I commute with no problems. Goat

						heads are the devil's child....Just say'n.

-- 

			Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE

			Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world

			www.porterbikes.com/

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